Tuesday, November 27, 2007

I'll vote for the candidate with the best cookies

Sorry to not write for so long. It'll be a little longer yet for anything substantial. I'm in the middle of processing a bunch of things (my research, job applications, the meaning of life...) so I haven't given much thought to story-telling here. In short, all is good. In the past few weeks I have been in a 1,200 year old mosque, strolled along the Mediterranean, applied to grad school, smoked Red Bull shisha, drank Tuskers with my mom, danced in a Nairobi burger joint turned night club, made two homemade pumpkin pies, ate Thanksgiving turkey and lost my phone and camera. I'll analyze-verbalize it soon enough.

In the meantime, I have found confirmation for my strongly held belief in the power of cookies. From The New Yorker:
At each caucus, any candidate who does not gain the support of a certain percentage of the attendees—typically, fifteen per cent—is considered nonviable, and supporters may disband and align with other candidates. “Realignment” is a chaotic moment when campaigns descend on each other’s groups and try to poach from them. The arguments used during realignment are notoriously haphazard, ranging from the high-minded (“Join my group because my candidate opposed the war”) to the pedestrian (“Join my group because I loaned you a snow shovel last week”). This, Waliser explained, is why every Obama group needed a corraller—to ward off the poachers. “This person will in a polite and respectful manner physically contain the Obama group and ask them to stay in their place,” she told her precinct captains. She suggested feeding them in case they got restless. “The name of the game on caucus night is stand and stay, so this is where the chocolate-chip cookies are crucial.”
See, it's not just me.

Thursday, November 8, 2007

Ten things

  1. I’ve moved in with two amazing women. Eva is a 30-ish year old française who works (really hard) for UNPD and salsas like she's trying to hypnotize. Livy is a 25 year old grad student from Southern Mississippi who swears like a sailor and dresses in J. Crew.
  2. My roommates and I sharing a car. Driving is soooo nice (compared to being driven everywhere). I’m getting good at averting potholes.
  3. I leave Saturday to go to Nairobi to see my mom and then to Cairo to see Garza. Expect full-on giddiness for the next two days.
  4. I have found where to go for good hot chocolate. With the rainy season underway, my new favorite retreat will be to sit under the awning at Botanica hotel and watch the rain with a cup of thick drinking chocolate.
  5. A little crisis occurred at work when I realized that the surveys – the core of my evaluation – that I thought were sent to the police officers a month ago (you know, only because someone told me they were sent) were actually still sitting in sealed envelopes in a filing cabinet at the Police Headquarters. All 250 of them. This week has been full of damage control meaning me calling policemen and saying, yeah that due date of October 22, you just want to ignore that…
  6. Work otherwise is getting interesting. I've done about 20 interviews so far and some are duds (completely useless, officers trying to sound impressive but never actually answering the questions) but some are really quite rich. This is one area where I particularly appreciate the Burundian tendency to, shall we say, soliloquize.
  7. December travel plans are finalized! On December 7th I hop from here to Addis Ababa to Ramallah to Paris to Portugal to London to New York to home on December 23rd. It’s about time I fill up that passport. Also I’m broke.
  8. I’ve applied to 7 jobs in the past couple weeks and will be spitting out cover letters and resumes until someone responds. I know it takes a while but seeing as I’ll be unemployed and broke come January I could really go for a quick response… Don’t these people know how good I am at things? Just give me a chance (and a paycheck), you’ll see, I’m really good at things.
  9. Clarification: the dress broke before the Marine Ball. About 30 minutes before, to be precise. After trying it on and having it fit perfectly that afternoon, I put it on at home to feel the zipper pop, followed by a cluster of girls descending to fiddle and fix until after several more pops we gave up and I borrowed clothes. Thank goodness for roomies with cute clothes. And arrrgghhh.
  10. As for the Marine Ball, the best part of the evening was probably when the Marines formally paraded a cake in with pomp, circumstance and swords. And yes, they used the sword to cut the cake. It was a treat to see pastries put on such a high pedestal. And I finally met the American Ambassador who was sparkling in a hot little strapless dress and, if I'm not mistaken, fishnets. That's my kind of diplomat.

How do you use "shorty" in a sentence?

Last Saturday morning I went to Willy's English class. Willy is a 24 year old guy from Cibitoke suburb of Bujumbura who decided he wanted to learn English. He has an amazing mastery of the language that reflects someone who learned a lot but has obviously taught himself. For instance, he'll make small grammatical errors but will toss out vocabulary like “extemporaneously” and “whet my appetite.” He also decided he could teach others, so on Saturday mornings, about 50 Burundians from ages 15-30ish cram into a small school room and create an English class for themselves.

The entire lesson is made by the students: they bring in the vocabulary, the prepare the exposes, they find stories to read aloud to the class. Willy and a couple of his friends act as facilitators, but otherwise it’s completely collaborative. Which is impressive, first of all, but also incredibly amusing. For example, take some of the vocabulary of the day:

  • Sex maniac: a man who wants to have sex all the time
  • Gold-digger: a woman who uses the fact that she is attractive to get money
  • Demoniac: stupid person (which dictionary.com defines as “of or relating to a demon” but I swear I’ve never heard)

If anyone has a question he will thoroughly discuss the word as if he was debating social policy – from the heartfelt explanation you would think pinpointing the difference between “hear” and “listen to” could save someone’s life. The facilitator for the day responded to good comments and the exposes by calling them “breathtaking” over and over again. Burundians take the things they say very seriously and these kids are passionate about learning, which is admirable but means there is a lot of exaggeration.

And then there was a whole religious part to it which I didn’t expect but you know, why not? Three guys got up to sing a worship song, one with a guitar, and if a little out-of-place for an English class, it was wicked cool. They had great voices and in the cloudy morning classroom set a beautiful scene. Best part was the second song they sang: they went to front of the class, one started beatboxing, the other shouts “You know we’re back! This is the remix!” and they rap (pretty well!) for a bit before busting into “Lord I lift your name on high.” I get the feeling they practice this for ten hours a week but it totally pays off. My face hurt from smiling at the end.

Computer lessons

Everyone has guards. If you’re a muzungu or if you’re wealthy, you have guards at your house, pretty much all office buildings have guards and since my office is in a compound with UNESCO and a section of USAID, we have about 10 of them at any time. Adrian made friends with some of the guards last year when (being Adrian) he worked late. Arthemon and Elie in particular were tight with Adrian, so when they met me and knew of my association with him, we were instant friends.

One of the things that Adrian had helped them with was a computer lessons. So at some point I offered to pick up where he left off. These are some of the highlights from last week’s lesson with Arthemon and Elie.

In trying to master the double left click on the mouse, Elie was clicking and dragging icons all over the desktop. “No, here, you have to hold it still….” I clarified. So he would gently move the cursor up to the icon, let go of the mouse, and click straight down on the mouse button with his pointer finger. They were both fascinated by the squiggly auto-spell check lines, realizing that when you make a mistake Word can just fix it for you! Arthemon read Adrian’s email out loud and the two of them responded verbally to his comments.

Adrian's email: You'll have to forgive for not writing for so long...
Arthemon: Oh, it has been too long, you must be busy.
Adrian's email: Did Elie get married yet?
Elie (in stitches): Noooooo!!! Not yet! Hahahah, oh Adrian, you'll come to my wedding when it happens!

Adrian's email: Are your classes hard?
Arthemon: Yes, they are my friend, but we make it through.
Adrian's email: I think of you guys often, I hope you're doing well.
Arthemon: You are so kind. God bless you.
Elie: I can't believe he thought I got married! What a great guy, Adrian...


Sunday, November 4, 2007

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Searching for a ballgown

Fifi told me she knew a good couturier who could help make my dress. We planned to meet on Monday to go look at fabric stores together.* What I didn’t realize beforehand but was most pleased to discover was that the dressmaker was coming to be my personal shopping assistant. All I needed was a little dog in a handbag to round out the scene.

We started by going to her studio, (Atelier de Hippie, which Neela and I found amusing), to look at some examples of her work. Adèle tried to get me to try on a tiny gold dress she had made for a friend of hers. I stepped behind the curtain, pulled it up to my hips and called out that it ah, wasn’t going to work. Incredulous, she stepped back to assist – here, try it from above, wait, just hold still – and gave up when, with one of my arms in and one out, the fabric refused to wiggle over my ribs and we started laughing. Then Fifi tried and it fit like a glove and she stepped out looking stunning. Please though, I’m American. The comparison just isn’t fair.

Adèle took us from shop to shop, greeting her friends behind the counter and introducing me to all the luscious fabrics that could be wrapped all around my body. In one shop were a bunch of colorful African and Indian batik prints, patterns and colors that made me feel like I was in a candy store and instantly imbued me with visual ADD. In another was a little girl singing songs to herself and jumping around with a doll. Her mother, the saleswoman, told her to hush but I hoped she wouldn’t because her voice was almost as cute as her bashful two-foot high smile. In the last one we visited we were helped by an Arab woman who spoke a very nice English and French and laid out soft and shimmery fabrics that glided just so over our fingers.

As I gushed over fabric at the final store and told Fifi “There are so many pretty things!” she dryly responded, “Then which one do you want?” I got the message - they’d had enough. Some might call my indecision exhausting, but I like to think of it as careful deliberation which (usually) leads to a wise and well-informed course of action. But you say tomato, and so after two hours and with a fistful of samples to consider overnight, I let them go. I spent the rest of the afternoon browsing Anthropologie and Nordstrom.com and wrote Hannah to find inspiration.

And sitting there mid-search, it donged on me that here I was, liberated. Having a dress made means I can indulge in complete creative license. With the maker right there at my disposal, anything I could imagine is possible, along with a lot of things I can’t. Torn asunder from the rules of fashion and cultural conformities that pinch us in the shape and size of the moment! No going into the store and having to choose among racks of redundant designs that everyone and their mother wears for me! Right here in my grasp: ultimate freedom, the chance to make and own something totally unique. I turn my back on the bland, I refuse to settle for what’s in season, I outright defy the style du jour. What did I do next?

I went with the simplest design possible. Full circle, came I. By scrutinizing bushels of pictures and pawing through armfuls of fancy fabrics, I either got scared and retreated back to my first option or felt like the first one was just more and more validated. I mean, of course, it was definitely the latter.

I went to the market the next day with Livy to pick out a classic yet classy African fabric. We swept past the unidentifiable and nauseating smells at the entrance, past the distended-belly babies and the legless men with collection cups, past the stands with a 12-foot high assortment of foreign condiments and straight into the canopies of color. There, unavoidably, we disappeared into the narrow aisle, feasting our eyes up and down either wall of us to scan all the possibilities against a soundtrack of “Hey sista, this one very pretty!”

I felt like I was in a paper store, surrounded by pretty things and not really having a use for them but wanting to scoop them all up, take them home, and be happy in the fact of having so much prettiness in my possession. I ended up with a black fabric with large bold abstract flowers (or petals, I’m not really sure) in red and yellow. I talked the seller down from $20 to $15 and gave him $16. I thought Adèle would kill me when I showed up and said I had chosen something entirely apart from the dozens of fabrics we saw yesterday (and I didn’t dare mention that I found it in a quarter of the time). She smiled, understood, and went to taking my new measurements. I realize I really enjoy having measurements taken.

I pick it up on Halloween to wear to the Marine Ball on Saturday. If anybody from home wants something made and can send me measurements and a request, I’d be delighted to go shopping for you!


*Sidenote: Monday was a holiday to commemorate a massacre of schoolchildren that took place in 1993. The assassination of then President Ndadaye occurred the day before as a signal for the killing to start. These events precluded the quick descent into genocide and a decade-long civil war.

Tuesday, October 16, 2007

Kids These Days: Part II

In a recent column, David Brooks gave us an alternative to the young professionals: the unrushed adventurers. What defines them? Well...

After graduation, they’ll spend a few years in different jobs, maybe they’ll go to graduate school and then they’ll figure out something more definite – or not. They’ll live in another country or two before they hit 30, or they’ll spend a year hiking/fishing/climbing/sailing/being outdoors. They are pretty good at packing all of their belongings in a car, or even in a few pieces of luggage. They’re not actively looking for “the one” and they’re not planning on doing anything permanent anytime soon. In life, in love or in work, they’re open to the idea of changing any plans they had because they don’t know all their options yet. They've got nothing against stability, but they don’t see a need for it, personally. They have long-term goals… they’re just not sure what they are yet. They are floating through their Odyssey years.

Wait, did I say they? Cause it sounds a lot like a lot of my friends and more than a little like me, dabbling in various interests, ambitious if uncertain, easily excited and uneasily committed. Yuck, it's always annoying to be pegged (by David Brooks, no less).

It’s definitely a luxury to be able to dawdle through our twenties like this, but according to Brooks’s column, everybody who can is doing it these days. "Odyssey years" is his term to describe the time when we’re off trying to figure things out before life requires that decision be made. No longer is finding yourself just a college thing. We’re extending the indecision into “real life.”

Personal mentality is part of it, but even more than that, it’s a function of a cultural change (hence the merit as a Times Op-Ed). The whole transition lifestyle has become a perfectly valid post-graduation option these days, right up there with going to work for the man or starting a family. And if my friends are any example of the larger population, it’s actually way more popular. Just to take a handful of examples:

Brian and Stephen went to Ramallah in the West Bank to teach in a Quaker school, neither of them Quaker or having extensively studied the Middle East. Anna took a road trip across the country and worked as a waitress in Oregon. Heather and Amon are working on environmental something-or-other in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia for a year. Robert left Wall Street and is traveling to a different Asian city every week and writing a novel. Then there are the friends in Peace Corps, Americorps, and Teach for America, all programs which last a year or two by design and draw in students from every background. And I’m in a country I had never heard of until last year, unsure of where I’ll be two months from now, or eight months from then, but I imagine it will be two different places.

The adventure itself is good. The tricky thing is we aren’t always sure of our reasons for taking it, and that’s where we should be wary. Brooks writes that we’re not just wasting time; on the contrary, people are doing it with very professional goals. We’re very aware of how we can use these experiences in the future… what's disconcerting is that we might be primarily using them for those goals. We’ve been heavily groomed in interview skills and programmed to pursue extra curriculars and encouraged if not forced to seek out unique life experience that will impress someone at some point. We're so conditioned that we’ve almost made routine the quest for adventure, forgetting that the adventure has its own inherent value.

To some degree, it’s fine to combine those experiences with more concrete objectives. What’s not okay is how doing so can keep you from living in the moment. Contextualizing youth in terms of adulthood keeps us from indulging in full revelry, and leads us to take ourselves and all we do much too seriously. And on that point, Brooks paints a very vivid picture of the ambitious kid who has lost the free-spirited excitement for life. In a different article, he wrote about professionalized adolescence with a clever allusion to modern-day interpretations of Kerouac’s On The Road. It’s worth reading, but to sum up:

If Sal Paradise were alive today, he’d be a product of the new rules. He’d be a grad student with an interest in power yoga, on the road to the M.L.A. convention with a documentary about a politically engaged Manitoban dance troupe that he hopes will win a MacArthur grant.”

Though impressive, the new-rules Sal is a tool, almost pathetic in his desire to impress. He’s constantly caught up in how he’ll fit his experience onto a resume, and constantly updating his resume. He goes on adventures bescause that’s what you do now and it makes great cocktail party conversation. He is interested in this stuff, but mostly because everyone else is. The new Sal isn't the protagonist of On the Road, but rather of Getting to the End of the Road.

So the question is – is that why we do it? Do we embark upon these travels and take up these causes because we’re wowed by them or because we know others will be? And if it’s a bit of both, are we finding the right balance?

I thought about this in the context of Nicholas Handler’s article (see previous post), because in a lot of way, Brooks and Handler are describing the same person. Handler’s Che t-shirt kid will soon grow into Brook’s power yoga grad student. He will replace the trendy and impressive activist causes he pursued in college with the trendy and impressive Odyssey years experiences. Our adventures, like our activism, assume a professional veneer inspired by current fads, and we’re a little bit opportunistic about everything.

Sliminess aside, the most detrimental part of this habit is the toll it takes on the bright young overachievers. College was my Odyssey primer when, with my friends who wanted to accomplish everything and often thought we could, we forgot how not to be stressed and prided ourselves on being able to sleep the least. We obviously cared about what we were doing but we probably cared more about how much we got done, so we lived out an unofficial competition who could collect the most marks of success: exotic travels, fancy internships, leadership titles and competitive grants – these were our gold stars, good for both social status and personal statements.

In the end, we got really good at taking ourselves seriously. We might have gotten a lot done, but the way we did it was a little bit sad. Looking back on that, I want my Odyssey years to be a chance to step away from the exhausting and not very healthy trend of investing all of yourself in everything. Because sometimes you have to remind yourself that some things are more important than the important stuff. That there doesn’t have to be a point to everything, and the trivialities of life are ultimately just as valuable as the big stuff. That walking on a dirt road or dancing like a fool or staying up till sunrise are not the stuff of interview banter but they are the secret behind a reminiscing smile that will far outlast your latest resume. A great thing about those moments and experiences is that they are for you and they are for your friends but you’re not going to be judged on them, in an interview or anywhere else. They are yours.

Brooks ends the Sal Paradise article with this:

Someday some hypermanic kid will produce a moronically maxed-out adventure odyssey that will spark the overdue rebellion among all the over-pressured SAT grinds, and us grumpy midlife critics will get to witness a new Kerouac, and the greatest pent-up young-life crisis in the history of the world.”

I hope it happens when I’m still in my Odyssey years. It sounds like good fun. :)